Morimoto's Chicken Noodle Soup (6-8 servings)

Taken straight from Morimoto's Cookbook, The New Art of Japanese Cooking, I was surprised how well the dish worked out. I hope you will enjoy it too.

Morimoto says it best when he says, "Your grandmother may make a great chicken soup, but mine is a bit more contemporary and, I'm willing to guess, a lot more interesting. Aromatic Sichuan peppercorns and a salty aromatic Ramen Base make this soup one that will surprise and delight you."

Ingredients:

• 1 frying chicken, 2 1/2 to 3 pounds (675 g), split in half

• 2 teaspoons salt

• 1 tablespoon Sichuan peppercorns

• 3 tablespoons sake

• 8 ounces (225 g) udon noodles

• 1 quarts chicken broth

• 1 1/2 quart beef broth

• 1/2 quart beef stock

• 3/4 cup Ramen Base (recipe below)

• 1 bunch of scallions, green parts only, julienned

• 1/4 cup peanut oil

Directions:

1. Place the chicken in a deep pot and pour in enough cold water to cover.

Add the salt, Sichuan peppercorns, and sake.

Bring to a boil, skimming off the foam as it rises to the top.

Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook, uncovered, for 25 to 35 minutes, or until the chicken is completely cooked.

2. While the chicken is simmering, cook the noodles in a large saucepan of boiling water until just tender, about 1 minute, or as directed on the package. Drain and set aside.

3. As soon as the chicken is done, remove it to a colander and let stand until cool enough to handle. (The water the chicken was cooked in can be reserved for stock or discarded.) Pull the meat off the bones, removing the skin as you do so. Shred half the the chicken into bite-size pieces. Reserve the remainder for another purpose.

4. In a large saucepan, bring the the broths and stock to a boil. Put about 1 1/2 tablespoons of the Ramen Base into each of 6 to 8 soup bowls. Divide the cooked noodles among the bowls and pour the hot broth over the noodles. Top each bowl with a mound of shredded chicken and the julienned scallions on top of that. (The scallions should reach above the level of the broth.)

5. Quickly heat the peanut oil in a small heavy skillet until it just begins to smoke. Immediately pour 2 teaspoons of peanut oil over the scallion in each bowl and serve.

RAMEN BASE (Makes about 1 cup) Known as men cha in Japanese, this seasoning mixture provides instant flavor to any broth. You can make it in advance and keep it in the refrigerator for weeks.

• 1 cup white soy sauce, available in Asian specialty stores

• 1/4 cup sake

• 2 tablespoons salt

• 1 teaspoon sugar

• 1/2 cup water

• 1 1/2 tablespoons vegetable oil

• 1 garlic clove, crushed

• 1 inch (2 1/2 cm) of fresh ginger, peeled and smashed

• 2 scallions, cut into 1 1/2-inch (4 cm) lengths

• 1 1/2 teaspoons white peppercorns

Directions

1. Mix together the white soy sauce, sake, salt, sugar, and water.

2. In a small saucepan, combine the oil, garlic, ginger, scallions, and white peppercorns.

Cook over low heat until fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes.

3. Pour the white soy mixture into the pan. Bring to a simmer and cook for 8 to 10 minutes, or until the liquid is reduced to about 1 cup. Strain before using.

Meyer Lemon Cake with Lavender Cream

The Star Recipe for Chez’ Easter Day Meal was a difficult choice. In Chez opinion all of the dishes were ‘almost a Star but not quite’. Undeterred, Chez' wife insisted that this dish was the star so Chez deferred. Wise man, this Chez.

The recipe calls for Meyer lemons… and in a perfect world this is what you need to use. Of course it isn’t a perfect world and you will get equally good results from regular lemons.

The Lavender Cream on the other hand should not be optional. The floral notes that the lavender brings to the party, offsets and softens the tart that the lemon brings and balances out the dish.

This one is a bit labor intensive but it is worth it…trust me.

For the cake

• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted, for brushing pan
• 5 large eggs, separated
• 3/4 cup sugar, divided
• 3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 tablespoon grated Meyer lemon zest plus 3 tablespoons Meyer lemon juice
• 1 cup cake flour (not self-rising)
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
  

For filling

• 1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar
• 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1 teaspoon grated Meyer lemon zest plus 3/4 cup Meyer lemon juice
• 1 large egg yolk
• 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
  

For lavender cream

• 1 1/2 cups heavy cream
• 3 tablespoons mild honey
• 1/2 tablespoon dried lavender blossoms

Equipment: an 8-inch springform pan

Garnish: confectioners sugar

Preparation

Make cake:

1. Preheat oven to 325°F with rack in middle.
2. Invert bottom of spring form pan and lock on side.
3. Brush pan with melted butter, then chill 2 minutes to set.
4. Line bottom of pan with a round of parchment paper, then brush pan and parchment with another layer of melted butter and chill 2 minutes more.
5. Dust with flour, knocking out excess.
6. Beat together yolks and 1/2 cup sugar in a large bowl with an electric mixer at high speed until pale and thick, about 3 minutes.
7. At medium speed, beat in oil and lemon zest and juice until just combined. Sift in flour and mix at low speed until just combined.
8. Beat whites with salt in another large bowl with cleaned beaters at medium-high speed until foamy, then add remaining 1/4 cup sugar a little at a time, beating, and continue to beat until whites just hold soft peaks.
9. Gently fold one third of whites into yolk mixture to lighten, and then fold in remaining whites gently but thoroughly.
10. Transfer batter to spring form pan, smoothing top, and gently rap against counter once or twice to eliminate any air bubbles.
11. Bake until golden brown (top will crack slightly) and a wooden pick inserted in center of cake comes out clean, 40 to 50 minutes.
12. Cool in pan on a rack 10 minutes, and then remove side of pan and cool cake to room temperature, about 1 hour (sides will cave in a little).

Make filling while cake cools:

1. Whisk together sugar, flour, and salt in a small heavy saucepan, then add lemon juice in a slow stream, whisking until combined.
2. Bring to a boil, whisking constantly, then simmer, whisking, until thickened, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat.
3. Whisk yolk in a small bowl, then add about one fourth of lemon-juice mixture, whisking vigorously. Whisk into remaining lemon-juice mixture and gently boil, whisking, 1 minute. Remove from heat and stir in butter and zest.
4. Transfer filling to a bowl and cover surface with buttered parchment paper.
5. Chill until cool, at least 30 minutes.
   

Make cream while cake cools:

1. Bring cream, honey, and lavender blossoms just to a boil in a small saucepan, then remove from heat and let steep, covered, 30 minutes.
2. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl, discarding solids, and chill lavender cream, covered, until cold.
   

Assemble cake:

1. Invert cake and discard parchment.
2. Cut cake horizontally in half with a long serrated knife.
3. Transfer 1 layer, cut side up, to a cake plate. Lightly whisk filling to loosen, and then spread filling evenly over cake layer on plate, leaving a 1/2-inch border around edge. Place top layer over filling.
4. Just before serving, beat lavender cream with a hand mixer until it is thickened.
5. Dust cake with confectioners’ sugar and serve with lavender cream.

The Flying Horse, Galena

In commemoration of our 17th anniversary, my wife and I made a return trip to Galena, Illinois to do a bit of 'what the tourists do'... yet man does not live on shopping and tours alone. At some point he will need sustenance and it is this dire need that brought us to the Flying Horse. [http://www.theflyinghorse.com/]

This restaurant was the hands-down 'favorite' dining experience of the 3-day weekend and even though it was added to the agenda as an afterthought, in retrospect it was a lucky choice.

Parking was easy, plentiful and not an issue, despite our picking a rather busy time of the evening to dine, (Our reservations were for seven o'clock, which appears to be 'prime time' in Galena). We began our evening at the bar. I had Gin and Tonic and Sheb had a Dirty Martini. (She is becoming quite the devotee to this little concoction.) Overall, the bartender was friendly, attentive, knowledgeable and... according to my wife, "Mixes a mean Dirty Martini". This is no mean compliment in that she has sampled from many other establishments and oft times finds them less than perfect. For the bar scene... we give them all of the points... and other than the somewhat bothersome pondering of the eternal question about the color of the walls, (Are they blue? Are they purple?) the experience was highly enjoyable. 10 out of 10.


Moving to the appetizer course we enjoyed the Beef and Chicken Satay and the Pita and Hummus Plate. Strangely enough (considering my palette) I liked the chicken over the beef. I found it to be tender and flavorful and the ginger dipping sauce was a nice complimentary taste. The beef was good but it most certainly did not go with the sauce, since it competed with the beef for foremost flavor...and in the end, neither won. This did not pose a problem in the end... I simply ate the beef satay without the sauce. Sheb thought the chicken was a bit too tender and preferred the beef over the chicken. In either case, we both agreed that it was the marinade that made the entire dish. 8 out of 10 on these little lovelies. The pita/hummus combo was also quite flavorful and while I can't get quite as excited over bread as my wife, the hummus had a distinctive chipotle and cumin kick and it was rather tasty. The pita was a bit flat (no pun intended) and had it been warmed, it would have been better. 9 out of 10.


As we entered the soup course, my eye was caught by the offering of Tomato-Basil Soup. Now, in all humility...I must admit that I make a pretty good roasted tomato soup and I was intrigued at the thought of adding basil to the dish. I ordered it and I was not disappointed. The soup was delicious and balanced with neither the tomato nor the basil competing for the 'lead role' and instead pairing together in harmony... 10 out of 10. The French Onion Soup - Sheb's choice, was good but both she and I though that the croutons could have been a bit 'crustier' and the cheese was missing that distinctive G.B.A.D. (golden brown and delicious) crust that can only come from a visit to a broiler or salamander. It may be that they rushed this one... to bad. 8 out of 10.

With the arrival of the main course, I was fortunate to have ordered the Sesame Encrusted Seared Tuna. All that I can say on this is WOW! This was a fantastic preparation of a sushi-grade tuna. Now I have eaten my share of Ahi over the years but this really was the best. Even Sheb, who cringes at the sight of raw fish, tried it not once...but twice and muttered, "It's not bad. I could eat that." High praise indeed, coming from a fishy-phob like her. 10 out of 10, without a doubt.

Sheb opted for a more conservative main course and picked the Shrimp and Scallop Fettucine. The dish was very creamy and quite flavorful and the tang of the Parmesan came through well. If there was a negative thing to say about the dish it would have to be that they were a bit stingy on the seafood. The dish had 3 scallops and 3 shrimp and while the dish did come with an abundance of noodles, it loses points for being light in the protein department... 8 out of 10. Both Sheb and I chose the Shitake Mushrooms as our side dish. Rather than allowing these to skew our numbers, we will not score them... but rest assured that these were terrible. They had a distinct woody characteristic and were quite inedible. So very sad!

As the quintessential glutton, I went ahead and ordered dessert, and I am saddened to report that this was the least desirable element of the meal. The Caramel Apple Pie with Vanilla Bean Ice Cream was too sweet for my tastes (and this is no small accomplishment) since the super-strong caramel cloy sweetness overwrote any 'apple goodness' there might have been in the dish. The Vanilla Bean Ice Cream on the other hand was a bit lackluster and the much awaited vanilla 'punch' that one expects when the word 'vanilla' is teamed up with the word 'bean' just wasn't there. I was expecting little bits of vanilla-goodness embedded in a velvety, creamy cloud. What I got instead was Blue Bunny Vanilla Ice Cream. 6 out of 10 and a lesson learned... 'Quit while you are ahead!'

Overall, it was a very pleasant dining experience and one that we both would revisit. For an overall grade, considering the food, the ambiance and the service, we will give the Flying Horse a 8.5 out of 10. Next time you are in Galena, give it a try and see if it measures up for you.


- Chez

Grilled Steaks with Whiskey Butter (4 servings)

Those of you who know me know that in my little mind there is no greater pleasure than a good cow. This recipe won, hands-down, on 4/5 with our Cowboy Theme Day and and gets to be the Star. Maybe it was the steak, maybe the grill marks or maybe [probably] it was the whiskey butter. I served it up with spicy pinto beans, sauteed mushrooms, a little bread and a dusting of curly parsley.

Special thanks again to Chris and Nicole for coming over, putting up with us and downing the grub.

Whiskey Butter:

2 sticks unsalted butter, softened

2 shallots minced, soaked in 1 shot of Jack Daniels or other whiskey or bourbon

3 teaspoons minced parsley

1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard

3 teaspoons Jack Daniels or other whiskey

1/2 teaspoon sea salt

White pepper to taste

Steaks:

• 4 cowboy steaks, bone-in rib eye steaks, or other favorite steak, about 1-inch thick
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1/4 teaspoon whole black peppercorns, coarsely ground
• Olive oil
• Chopped parsley, optional
  

Preparation

Make Whiskey Butter: [Make Butter at least 3 hours in advance.]

1. Combine butter, shallots soaked in Jack Daniels (or other bourbon or whiskey), parsley, Worcestershire, mustard, whiskey, salt, and pepper.
2. Mix well.
3. On a piece of plastic wrap, drop butter in spoonfuls to form a log.
4. Roll butter in plastic wrap and smooth out to form a round log.
5. Refrigerate until hard and easy to slice into round, coin-shaped pieces.
   

Prepare Steaks: [Allow meat to come to room temperature about 15 minutes before grilling.]

1. Just before grilling, brush both sides of the steaks with the oil and season with salt and pepper.
2. Place steaks directly over medium-high heat for about 1 to 2 minutes, just long enough to get good grill marks.
3. Turn steaks and sear the other side.
4. Move steaks to indirect heat and continue cooking for about 7 more minutes for medium rare.
5. Remove steaks from the grill, top with a pat of the whiskey butter and allow to rest at least 5 minutes but no longer than 10 before serving.
   
6. Spread the melted butter all over the tops of the steaks and top each with a fresh slice of the whiskey butter and parsley, if desired.