Arnaud’s, French Quarter, New Orleans

Arnaud’s doesn’t need me to sing its praises. It has been doing yeoman’s work, culinary speaking, since 1918… yet as our fourth dinning locale we review it nonetheless.

Atmosphere and grace are the two watchwords that best describe the interior of this refined dining establishment. Its Old World charm and attention to the finer things make this restaurant a feast for the eyes as well as the palette.

We will forgo the standard mention of cocktails and salads (Chardonnay and house salads with a Dijon vinaigrette) and concentrate our comments on the main course, the dessert and the ‘post game show’.

Sheb’s main course consisted of Red Fish Almandine - a crisply fried almond-crusted fillet, topped with more sliced almonds and served with a delectable Lemon Butter Sauce… all atop a rice pilaf. No ill comments were forthcoming and I do believe that she was quite please with her selection. Chez was please as well, when he ordered… and subsequently received, his Filet Mignon au Poivre - a seared pepper-studded center-cut filet with classic French Brandy Cream Sauce. This is classic French/Creole cooking at its finest!

For dessert, Sheb took on the Ice Cream Profiteroles and Chez selected the Crème Brûlée… after all, if the French can’t get it right, well then no one can. Here again… they did not disappoint!
We ended the evening sipping our Café Brulôt (after the show, of course) and soaking in the ambiance that is Arnaud’s.

Have you been yet?

No… well then you MUST go!

Yes… well then it is time to go back.

I know we will return.

NOLA, French Quarter, New Orleans

Night three and a visit to Emeril Lagasse’s 2nd signature restaurant in New Orleans, NOLA and okay… I admit it, Chez decided to be glutton… but hey, it’s Mardi Gras Week!
Both the energy level and the décor were outstanding but it was the efficiency and service oriented attitude of the staff made the evening a fantastic addition to our week’s dining excursion. The wait staff was attentive, polite, and friendly; all in all… true professionals, now on to the food!

Gin and Tonic and a Dirty Martini were the call of the day as well as a Lobster and Roasted Corn Bisque. The sweet of the lobster offset the smokiness of the corn and made this dish sublime. For an appetizer, we ordered the Head-On BBQ Gulf Shrimp and the Wood Oven Roasted Pocket Bread, dressed with Garlic Oil, Basil and Parma. Both were excellent but the ‘puffiness’ of the bread made it the hands-down favorite for this round.

In an effort to bring some ‘healthy considerations’ to our gluttonous foray we opted for salads, with Sheb going for the Baby Spinach, Feta and Kalamata olive salad and Chez ordering the Duck Confit Salad. Sheb found hers good but lacking a certain ‘zing’ I, on the other hand’ loved the crispy duck-bits.

As time for our main course arrived, we knew we were in the right spot for the evening. Sheb’s Shrimp and Grits were straight from heaven, by way of the bayou. I’m not sure if it is lady-like to roll one’s eyes in joy during dinner, but suffice it to say… she did. I went with the Grilled Red Fish served on a bed of Cajun Rice Pilaf and Corn. Mine was good; however it was just the slightest bit dry… owing to being overcooked.

Stuffed as we were we still went dessert hunting and decided to share a seasonal favorite… King Cake ala Mode. What’s not to like with this choice?

So, what are the chances of a return visit? Pretty darn good, mon ami… pretty darn good!

Red Fish Grill, French Quarter, New Orleans

Our second evening dinner plans took us to the Red Fish Grill, reputed to be one of those stellar establishments within the Quarter of New Orleans. Sadly, whether it was a function of the close proximity to Mardi Gras or the exceedingly high volume of business, this was one of the establishments that failed to live up to the ‘hype’. The noise level was beyond loud and at times bordered on painful. In order to accommodate all of the ‘extra’ customers, tables were added between the tables and this made the venue decidedly crowded. Now factor in the inebriation level of the clientele… well, let’s just say it wasn’t a fun experience.

As far as the food was concerned… I can honestly say that while the drinks were acceptable (Sazerac and a Mai Tai) this was the first time we were served our dinner bread in a paper bag. Not sure why they do this and it gave the meal a decidedly ‘take out’ feel… which maybe was their intent? Perhaps it was to speed the table turn-over? Moresthepity, since the bread was very good.

We both decided to forgo the appetizer and opted instead for salads, with Sheb selecting a Jerk Chicken Salad of field greens, creamy rosemary dressing, granny smith apples and roasted pumpkin seeds, which she found to be watery and a touch on the bland side. I chose the house salad of hearts of romaine with crumbled Stilton, tomatoes, red onions, and roasted pecans tossed with an apple-rosemary vinaigrette. While not very aesthetic and lacking any presentation points whatsoever, it was pleasing to the palette.

For a main course, Sheb selected the Grilled Jumbo Louisiana Gulf Shrimp with a crispy jambalaya cake, caramelized onion sauce and sautéed spinach. She found the shrimp tasty, the spinach and sauce quite good, but the crispy cake neither crispy nor enticing and left it on her plate. I chose a dozen of NOLA’s finest oysters. Yup… no BP residue here! These were excellent.

As the dessert cart appeared we wondered if we should quit on a high not… but alas, our waiter talked us out of that option and instead pointed us to the ‘house specialty’… Double Chocolate Bread Pudding, a Red Fish Grill Signature dish. Purportedly it was a rich dark and semisweet chocolate bread pudding served with white and dark chocolate ganache and chocolate almond bark. Reality on the other hand, revealed the dish to be a tepid, soggy concoction reminiscent of damp WonderBread covered in Hershey syrup. Factor in the lack of presentation and you can easily see why this was not a stellar end to the meal.

Perhaps one day Chez will return… but there are too many other restaurants in New Orleans to try first… so Red Fish will have to wait a very long time for another chance.

Bombay Club, French Quarter, New Orleans

It was with high hopes that we visited the Crescent City to see the sights, experience Mardi Gras and sample the fare from many of the fine restaurants that grace this elegant city. For seven consecutive evenings we explored the byways and alleys of the French Quarter seeking sustenance and visiting the classic, historic venues that make New Orleans a culinary capital of the world.

Several of the restaurants that Chez will review over the next week hardly need his ringing endorsement… they have been serving the public for generations, yet Chez feels compelled to ‘give the devil his due’ and mention them if for no other reason than to add his voice to the litany of praises that have historically rained down on a few of the ‘notables’. In the case of a few others, well… let’s just say that the ‘hype’ does not measure up to reality, but enough of introductions. Let’s bring on the reviews!

We started our culinary adventure at the Bombay Club, a decidedly English-themed establishment filled with quaint, curtained dining booths, old world ambiance and a menu with a decidedly British slant.

Dinner began with cocktails… to do less just wouldn’t be civilized, and what better choice than a good quality Bombay Sapphire martini garnished with a Stilton-filled olive… magnificent! In addition, rather than the standard bread we received a pair of scones, fresh from the oven and kissed with touch of honey. Absolutely divine!

For our appetizer we selected the Bombay Shrimp Cocktail, gin poached jumbo shrimp, served with pickled okra, a gin and horseradish cocktail sauce and leaves of fresh spinach… good, but nothing exceptional, although the addition of the okra was a nice change from the traditional shrimp cocktail. I did note that the flavors from the gin poaching of the shrimp was lost amidst the rest of the flavors of the dish and I found the dish somewhat pedestrian and most assuredly ‘very old school’… but it did fit the décor and the theme nicely.

Main course was a most excellent cut of filet with melted English Stilton cheese, chive mashed potatoes & sauce bordelaise. This dish made the whole meal! The steak was tender, the tang that the Stilton brought to the dish was amazing but the sauce bordelaise and the creamy, smooth mashed potatoes rounded out the dish and kept all of the flavors in balance.

The only negative that Chez can concede was that, as far as dinners go, it was on the pricey side… but he is willing to choke that up to pre-Mardi Gras price increases and forego judgment until he is given an opportunity to get back (not during Carnival) and try it again!

Crispy Chicken Congee (serves 6)

Congee, an Asian rice porridge, also known as jook, turns up in Chinese households morning, noon, and night. This thick rendition is made heartier with the addition of chicken and it was today’s surprise winner.

Think of it as Chinese comfort food that is just as 'comfortable' right here in the USA. From the creamy, smooth, risotto-like silky goodness to the crispy chicken bits, to the zing brought by the scallions… it’s all good.

Trust Chez, he knows what he’s talking about when he gets his Far-East on!

What you'll need:

• 3 boneless, skinless chicken thighs
• 2 Tablespoons Sesame seed oil
• 2 tablespoons soy sauce
• 1 quart chicken stock
• 1 cup water
• ½ cup Chinese rice wine or saki
• 3 (1/4-inch-thick) slices fresh ginger
• 3 scallions, halved crosswise and smashed with flat side of a heavy knife
• 1 ½ cup long-grain rice
• Garnish: thinly sliced scallions

How you'll use it:

Bring chicken and broth to a boil in a 5-quart heavy pot, skimming froth. Add wine, ginger and scallions and cook at a bare simmer, uncovered, 20 minutes, or until meat is just cooked through. Trasfer chicken to a bowl and continue to cook stock at a bare simmer, skimming froth as neccessary, 1 hour.

Cool chicken completely and tear into shreds. Place chicken in saute pan with sesame seeed oil and saute until chicken picks up color and begins to crisp around the edges. Add soy sauce, cook for an additional minute and then remove from heat. Set aside.

As for the stock, you should have about 7 cups: if less, add water; if more, cook longer after adding rice.) Return stock to cleaned pot and add rice. Bring to a boil and stir. Reduce heat to low and simmer, covered until consistency of oatmeal, about 1 1/4 hours, stirring frequently during last 1/2 hour of cooking. (Congee will continue to thicken as it stands. thin with water if necessary.) Season congee with soy sauce.

Laddle into bowls and serve, topped with chicken and chopped scallions.

'prasino' in Saint Charles

So you might be asking yourself, “What exactly is it that makes Chez look so smug this evening?” Well the answer is simple and it goes by the name of ‘prasino’… the finest dining establishment that he has visited in Saint Charles to date, bar none!

Outstanding tastes, colors, smells, textures and ambiance are just a few of the ‘draws’ to this Chicago western suburb hotspot… but more than all of these things is the overriding adherence to the concept of a ‘green’, ethical, morale, humane and socially responsible dining experience. Here is a place that you can indulge your soul and exercise your hedonistic, excessive nature and walk away completely sated without the slightest tinge of guilt for sinning against the environment. (Sad that the same could not be said for sinning against one’s waistline, but alas that sin will require more penance on the ‘Stairmaster 2000’.)

Don’t take my word for it; instead look at their Mission Statement - “prasino’s commitment to sustainability is incorporated in each cafe’s eco-chic design. Tabletops and floors incorporate reclaimed wood and light fixtures are crafted from recycled wine bottles and corrugated cardboard boxes. Food is prepared in kitchens designed to reduce energy and water use, to incorporate recycling, and eco-friendly cleaning products.” Chez saw nothing that would indicate that they are not true to their promise. But enough about social responsibility, let’s bring on the nibbles!

We began with cocktails (did you ever doubt that?) in the form of a Spicy Bloody Mary and a Dirty Martini. Since the martini has made so many appearances here we will forgo any descriptions of it in favor of singing the praises of Chez’ choice. In truth, it was indeed on the spicy side, but the crushed red pepper-rim and the Wisconsin horseradish paired nicely with the tomato-goodness held within that tall flagon and the addition of a pickled tomatillo was a very tasty unique addition to the garnishments that graced the glass.

A butter lettuce wrap of assorted fresh veggies and feta served as our initial appetizer but the ‘Call of the Flatbread’ was more than we could ignore and we succumbed to the inevitable and added a Margherita as well as a Vegetarian Flatbread pizza to our eco-friendly table. (I’m sure that 45 minutes on the exercise bike will more than suffice for this excess.)

Our salad course was an Asian Chopped Slaw composed of Napa cabbage, carrots, bok choy and dressed with the most heavenly ginger sesame dressing and then garnished with lovely jewels of five-spiced cashews. (This healthy salad will undoubtedly undo some of the damage from the aforementioned pizza… perhaps only 30 minutes on the bike will be needed?)

Our next treat came to us when Executive Chef Scott Halverson graced our table with a ‘special creation just for us’, a hamachi and avocado tidbit. It was outstanding but what was even more outstanding was when he stayed to spend some quality time with us to chat about food, Texas and all things ‘cool’. It was a scene that was repeated throughout our meal and he is to be commended for not only his keen culinary eye and creative hands but also his friendly persona and conversational savvy. Bravo sir!

Our main courses arrived in good order with Sheb enjoying her Mussels, Laughing Bird Shrimp and Pappardelle pasta, garnished with fresh herbs, white wine, tomato vierge, chili garlic butter and a few parmesan crostini, just for added effect. In her words… “WOW!”

Chez went for the healthier option and chose Line Caught Ahi Tuna, Sesame Seared Rare, served with Soba noodles, edamame, radish, ginger-sesame Dragon sauce and Chive Oil. This dish was beyond excellent! In consideration of the heart-healthy aspects of this fish, one could almost rationalize that no additional ‘bike time’ was actually warranted. In fact, the Omega-3 factor of this sublime tuna dish should enable us to order a substantial dessert without fear. “Bring on the dessert cart!”

Ah, the best part of the day… The Gooey Butter Cake that was vaguely reminiscent of a deconstructed Snickers Bar (his) and a Dark Chocolate Lava Cake (her) that was to die for. Add a small snifter of a good 10-year old Scotch and another of Amaretto and you will come to realize that this was a fantastic day.

So, what’s the verdict? Well if you haven’t figured it out yet (you really should pay better attention) ‘prasino’ is a place that you MUST visit, whether it is for the eco-awareness or for the culinary adventure… you can’t go wrong.

- Chez

Salty Peanut and Fudgy Chocolate Brownies

OMG... this one was the MVP of our Superbowl three-hour nibble extravaganza and even though we had to wait to the end to sample it, it was well worth the wait. Well, that seems only fair, cuz didn't you have to wait to the end of the Super Bowl to see who won?

So, were you cheering Green Bay on?

Were you behind the Steelers the whole way?

Well, I'm all about the chewy chocolate brownies and the PB ganache.... Go Ganache!

- Chez

Brownies

• 3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter
• 7 ounces bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped
• 3 ounces unsweetened chocolate, chopped
• 1 1/2 cups sugar
• 1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 4 large eggs
• 1 cup all purpose flour
• 1 cup roasted salted peanuts, coarsely chopped

Frosting and Ganache

• 1 cup chunky peanut butter (do not use natural or old-fashioned)
• 1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, divided, room temperature
• 3/4 cup powdered sugar
• 1/8 teaspoon salt
• 1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg
• 1 tablespoon whole milk
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
• 7 ounces bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped
  

Preparation For brownies:
Position rack in center of oven and preheat to 325°F. Line 13x9x2-inch metal baking pan with foil, leaving long overhang; butter foil.

Place 3/4 cup butter in heavy large saucepan. Add both chocolates; stir over low heat until smooth. Remove from heat. Whisk in sugar, vanilla, and salt, then eggs, 1 at a time. Fold in flour, then nuts. Spread in prepared pan. Bake until tester inserted into center comes out with moist crumbs attached, about 30 minutes. Place pan on rack; cool.

For frosting and ganache:
Using electric mixer, beat peanut butter and 1/4 cup butter in medium bowl to blend. Beat in powdered sugar, salt, and nutmeg, then milk and vanilla. Spread frosting over brownies.

Stir chocolate and 1/4 cup butter in heavy small saucepan over low heat until smooth. Drop ganache all over frosting; spread to cover. Chill until set, about 1 1/2 hours. Do ahead Can be made 1 day ahead. Cover and keep chilled.

Using foil as aid, transfer brownie cake to work surface; cut into squares. Bring to room temperature; serve.

Crazy Cake

If you are looking for a fast dessert in the chocolate venue, this one might find a spot in your recipe box. For those that suffer from egg allergies, this one is a definite keeper.

Sprinkle with a little powdered sugar and serve with some Rocky Road Ice Cream and this will take you back to the ‘30s… but in a good way.

Ingredients

• 1 1/2 cups all purpose flour
• 1 cup sugar
• 1/3 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
• 1 teaspoon baking soda
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1 cup cold water
• 1/3 cup vegetable oil
• 1 tablespoon distilled white vinegar
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Preparation

Preheat oven to 350°F. Place first 5 ingredients in 8x8x2-inch nonstick metal pan. Using handle of wooden spoon, poke three holes in dry ingredients. Combine 1 cup cold water, oil, vinegar, and vanilla in large glass measuring cup. Pour liquid ingredients into holes in dry ingredients (there will be some overflow). Using fork, stir until batter is smooth. Bake until tester inserted into center comes out clean, about 30 minutes. Cool completely in pan on rack. (Can be made 1 day ahead. Cover and store at room temperature.)

Mini Mex Rolls

Guy Fiery was the inspiration for our dining excursion of January 23rd and the “Mini Mex Rolls” from Psycho Suzi’s Motor Lodge was our Star winner for today. Her fine establishment can be found at: www.psychosuzis.com/ and the next time I’m in the greater Minneapolis area, I am so there… but until then I’ll just have to trust in this version to tide me through. Enjoy!

- Chez

Ingredients

• 1 chicken breast, cooked and finely chopped
• 1/4 cup taco seasoning
• 1/2 cup water
• 1 1/2 cups shredded pepper Jack cheese
• 1/2 cup diced roasted red pepper
• 1/2 cup chopped pickled jalapenos
• 1/2 cup corn
• 1 scallion, chopped
• ½ cup chopped cilantro
• 5 dashes of hot sauce
• 1/2 cup black beans
• 1 egg
• 2 tablespoons water
• Wonton or egg roll wrappers
• Canola oil, for frying

Directions

Heat the cooked chicken, seasoning and water on medium heat until the liquid thickens and gets absorbed into the chicken. Set aside.
Combine the cheese, red peppers and jalapenos in with corn, cilantro, scallions, beans, and chicken mixture. Combine well, add hot sauce and set aside.

Whisk together the egg and water and set aside. Place wonton or egg roll wrappers on a flat surface and brush the outer edges with egg wash mixture. If you're using wonton wrappers, attach 2 together with egg wash mixture to make a longer rectangle. Place 2 heaping tablespoons of Mex mixture onto wrapper and spread into a log shape. Fold over ends of wrapper approximately 1/2-inch to cover ends of log shaped mixture. After ends are turned in, roll up and seal.

Deep-fry the Mini Mex Rolls in canola oil heated to 375 degrees F until they float. Remove and drain, and allow to cool for several minutes before serving. Serve with creamy salsa (made of 1 part salsa and 2 parts sour cream).

Ricotta Gelato with Blackberry Sauce (Serves 4)

So, it was a Bee Gees kinda day and we ended our day with a Bee-Gees kinda dessert, namely Blackberry Gelato. Yup, this one wins the day. Now if you are looking for creamy, dreamy American ice cream, this ain't it. The ricotta gives this dessert a decidedly grainy texture but that's just the way it's supposed to be, honest... And that sauce is awesome!

For the gelato

• 1 1/2 cups half-and-half
• 1 cup milk
• a 15- or 16-ounce container whole-milk ricotta
• 1/2 cup sugar
• a 3-inch cinnamon stick
• a 2-inch strip of lemon zest removed with a vegetable peeler
• 2 tablespoons light corn syrup
• 1/4 teaspoons vanilla

For the blackberry sauce

• 1 cup sugar
• 1/4 cup water
• 2 cups blackberries
• 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
• 1 teaspoon crème de cassis
• blackberries for garnish

Make the gelato: In a saucepan whisk together the half-and-half, the milk, the ricotta, and the sugar, add the cinnamon stick, and bring the mixture just to a boil, stirring. Remove the pan from the heat, add the zest, and let the mixture stand, covered, for 10 minutes. Force the mixture through a fine sieve set over a bowl and stir in the corn syrup and the vanilla. Chill the mixture, covered, until it is cold and freeze it in an ice-cream freezer according to the manufacturer's instructions. Pack the gelato tightly into six 1/2-cup dariole or other molds, cover each mold with plastic wrap, and freeze the gelato for 30 minutes, or until it is ready to be served.

Make the blackberry sauce: In a heavy saucepan melt the sugar over moderate heat, stirring with a fork, and cook the syrup, swirling the pan occasionally, until it is a golden caramel. Working carefully and quickly, stir in the water, the blackberries, the lemon juice, and the crème de cassis (the mixture will bubble up), stirring until mixture is combined well, and cook the mixture over moderately low heat until the caramel is dissolved. Strain the mixture through a fine sieve set over a bowl, pressing hard on the solids, and chill the sauce, covered, until it is cold.
Divide the sauce among 6 dessert plates, unmold the gelato, and arrange it in the center of the plates. Garnish each serving with blackberries.