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1/31/10

Apricot and Walnut Varenikis (makes 2 dozen)

Chez must admit that he was ‘generous’ in his Star selection this week. These varenikis get the nod since they show so much potential. The tartness of the apricot and the subtle sweetness of the cinnamon and brown sugar brown butter crumble gives this dish high points despite the dough needing a bit more evenness and thinness but we will attribute this to hand rolling and a lack of a pasta roller attachment (perhaps I will get one).

One word of caution… these are not a quick and easy dessert, but I think they could be a future great one. We will have to revisit once that roller attachment is obtained.

Dough Ingredients

  • 1 cup all-purpose flour plus additional for kneading and rolling
  • 3/4 cup cake flour (not self-rising)
  • 2 large eggs
  • 3/4 teaspoon salt
  • 1/4 cup water

Dough Preparation

  1. Stir together flours in a bowl. Make a well in flour and add eggs, salt, and water, then stir together with a fork without touching flour.
  2. Continue stirring, gradually incorporating flour into well until a soft dough forms.
  3. Transfer dough to a lightly floured work surface and knead, adding only as much additional flour as needed to keep dough from sticking, until smooth and elastic, about 8 minutes. (Dough will be soft.)
  4. Cover with plastic wrap and let rest at room temperature at least 30 minutes.

Cooks' note: ·Dough may be made 2 hours ahead, wrapped well in plastic wrap and chilled. Bring to room temperature before using.


Varenikis Ingredients
  • 1/4 cup water
  • 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
  • 2 tablespoons apricot brandy
  • 6 oz dried apricots (1 cup; preferably California)
  • 1/2 cup walnuts (2 ounces), finely chopped
  • 1 stick (1/2 cup) unsalted butter
  • 1/2 cup fresh (homemade is best) bread crumbs
  • 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon

Varenikis Preparation

Make filling: Bring water and 1/4 cup sugar to a boil, stirring until sugar is dissolved. Remove from heat and stir in brandy. Finely chop apricots in a food processor, then add sugar syrup and pulse until just combined (do not purée). Transfer to a bowl and stir in 1/4 cup walnuts. Cool.

Roll out dough and fill varenikis: Halve dough and roll out 1 piece on a lightly floured surface into a 15-inch round, keeping remaining dough wrapped. Trim dough to a 13-inch square. Cut lengthwise into 4 strips, then crosswise into fourths to form 16 (3 1/4-inch) squares.
Put 1 slightly rounded teaspoon filling in center of each square. Working with 1 square at a time, moisten edges with water and fold in half diagonally to form a triangle, pressing edges firmly together to seal. Overlap bottom points of triangle and press to seal (dumpling will look like a pointed hat). Transfer varenikis to a flour-dusted kitchen towel. Repeat with remaining squares, and then make more dumplings with remaining dough and filling. Cook varenikis in a large pot of lightly salted boiling water until tender, about 15 minutes.

Make topping while varenikis cook: Heat 2 tablespoons butter in a skillet over moderate heat, then cook bread crumbs and remaining 1/4 cup walnuts, stirring frequently, until golden, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from heat and season lightly with salt. Stir together cinnamon and remaining 2 tablespoons sugar. Sprinkle 2 teaspoons cinnamon sugar over crumb mixture and toss.


To serve varenikis: Melt remaining 6 tablespoons butter, then drizzle about 2 tablespoons on a warmed serving platter. Transfer varenikis with a slotted spoon to platter and drizzle with remaining 4 tablespoons butter. Serve hot, sprinkled with bread-crumb mixture and remaining cinnamon sugar to taste.


Cooks' note: Filled varenikis can be frozen 1 month. Freeze on a tray until firm, about 2 hours, then freeze in sealable plastic bags. Thaw before cooking.

1/25/10

Wasabi Sushi & Saki Lounge

When one thinks sushi one would be hard pressed to also think ‘Wisconsin’ but in the case of Wasabi Sushi Lounge, we were pleasantly surprised.

Family business took us to Waukesha this past weekend but curiosity took us to Wasabi’s in Brookfield, Wisconsin (http://www.wasabisakelounge.com/). What did the culinary gods have to offer us?

With the dread images of ‘cheese filled’ Maki and ‘beer dipped’ Nigiri dancing in our heads we ventured out to try the Asian Fare of suburban Milwaukee… and to our surprise, it was pretty good. Not great mind you and nowhere near the caliber of Morimoto in Philadelphia, but considering our locale it was still good.

We begin with the ambiance - which is energetic and the décor – which is tastefully pan-Asian. The faux bamboo was perhaps a bit over represented but as a package it’s a nice place to just sit, converse, dine and relax.
The cocktails were fair, with the Saki Mojito being far better in quality than the Ginger Martini which I found to be too briny for my tastes.

Our second course (Miso Soup) was standard Japanese sushi bar fare and nothing exceptional, but when the House Salad arrived (I have found that this element is most often neglected at Japanese restaurants) we all were surprised at the high quality of the dressing. Sweet, tangy, just a bit of bite from ginger and a whole lot more flavor than I was expecting.

As the time for the main course arrived, my wife selected the Teriyaki Chicken, and while she said it was good I felt that the flavors were a bit understated. My daughter and I ‘did the Sushi Boat’ and it was here (in my humble opinion) that Wasabi excels.

Delicate, graceful, a joy to the eye as well as the palette… this was why we had come here. If there is any negative surrounding the sushi it was that the rice was almost ‘not right’. It could have used just the slightest touch more of rice vinegar, but as I said… almost not right, so perhaps I am splitting hairs?

In all, it was a very pleasant experience and one that all of us would repeat in the future and I give it 3 ½ stars out of 5.
- Chez

1/17/10

Roasted Carrot Fennel Soup (serves 6)

What a soup!

Chez put it on the menu during his ‘Pan Asian-themed’ day and it was the ‘hands-down favorite. The carrots and fennel caramelize when roasted at high heat, then they release their sweet essence when blended. A drizzle of fennel-seed oil echoes and intensifies the fennel flavor. The soup has layers of flavors that need to be tried to be appreciated. Enjoy! - Chez


Ingredients -

  • 2 medium fennel bulbs with fronds
  • 1 pound carrots, quartered lengthwise
  • 1 medium onion, quartered
  • 1 garlic clove
  • 5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
  • 1/2 teaspoon sugar
  • 2 1/2 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth
  • ½ cup water
  • ½ cup sour cream or crème fraiche
  • 1 teaspoon fennel seeds
  • ½ cup sour cream or crème fraiche

Equipment:

  • electric coffee/spice grinder
  • stick blender

Preperation –

  1. Preheat oven to 450°F with rack in lowest position.
  2. Chop enough fennel fronds to measure 1 tablespoon and reserve.
  3. Discard stalks and remaining fronds.
  4. Slice bulbs 1/4 inch thick and toss with carrots, onion, garlic, 3 tablespoons oil, sugar, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper.
  5. Spread in a 4-sided sheet pan and roast, stirring occasionally, until browned and tender, 25 to 30 minutes.
  6. Transfer vegetables medium saucepan.
  7. Add sour cream or crème fraiche and water.
  8. Mix with stick blender to a creamy consistency.
  9. Simmer 10 minutes.
  10. Season with salt and pepper.
  11. Meanwhile, finely grind fennel seeds in grinder and stir into remaining 2 tablespoons oil.
  12. Serve soup drizzled with fennel oil and sprinkled with reserved fronds.

Chez’ Notes:

• Soup can be made 1 day ahead and chilled.

• Fennel oil can be made 2 days ahead and kept at room temperature.

1/10/10

Warm Hazelnut Cream Crepes (makes 12)

Chez found this dish more than a little ‘labor intensive’ but as far as taste coupled with a stunning visual presentation, it was more than worth it.

Chez garnished the dish with Bosc and Red Pear slices and edible orchids. These are optional of course, but the purple adds a nice splash of color to the plate.

With all of this said, make the effort, give these a try, and don’t skimp on the hazelnut cream... and don't let the butter scare you away! It adds a boatload of flavor.

- Chez


Crepes

  • 1 cup all purpose flour
  • 2 tablespoons sugar
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt
  • 1 1/2 cups whole milk
  • 1/2 cup whipping cream
  • 2 tablespoons (1/4 stick) unsalted butter, melted
  • 2 large eggs
  • 2 tablespoons Frangelico (hazelnut liqueur)
  • 1 teaspoon grated lemon peel
  • Additional melted butter

Hazelnut cream

  • 1 cup hazelnuts, toasted, husked
  • 1/2 cup powdered sugar
  • 6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature
  • 2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon all purpose flour
  • 1 large egg
  • 1 large egg yolk
  • 1 tablespoon Frangelico

Sauce

  • 2 tablespoons Frangelico
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons sugar
  • 1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter
  • 1/3 cup hazelnuts, toasted, chopped
  • 1/4 teaspoon coarse kosher salt

Preparation

For crepes:

  1. Whisk flour, sugar, and salt in large bowl. Make well in center of flour mixture.
  2. Whisk milk and next 5 ingredients in medium bowl to blend.
  3. Add to flour mixture; whisk to blend. Cover; let stand at room temperature 2 hours.
  4. Heat nonstick skillet with 7-inch-diameter bottom over medium-high heat.
  5. Brush bottom with melted butter.
  6. Pour generous 3 tablespoons batter into skillet; swirl to coat bottom. Cook until edges are light brown, about 30 seconds.
  7. Loosen edges gently with spatula and turn crepe over. Cook until bottom begins to brown in spots, about 30 seconds.
  8. Transfer to plate. Cover with paper towel. Repeat to make 12 crepes total, brushing skillet with melted butter as needed and stacking crepes between paper towels. (Can be made 1 day ahead. Cover and chill.)

For hazelnut cream:

  1. Using on/off turns, finely chop nuts with sugar in processor. Add remaining ingredients; process until blended.
  2. Butter rimmed baking sheet. Place 1 crepe on work surface. Place 1 tablespoon hazelnut cream in lower right quarter of crepe.
  3. Fold crepe in half over cream, then into quarters, folding to show layers.
  4. Transfer to prepared baking sheet. Place 1 teaspoon hazelnut cream atop crepe.
  5. Repeat with remaining 11 crepes and hazelnut cream. (Can be prepared 3 hours ahead. Cover with plastic wrap and chill.)
  6. Preheat oven to 400°F. Bake until crepes are hot and crisp around edges, about 6 minutes.

Meanwhile, prepare sauce:

  1. Stir Frangelico and sugar in small bowl until sugar dissolves.
  2. Melt butter in heavy large skillet over medium-high heat; cook until butter browns, stirring occasionally, about 5 minutes.
  3. Remove from heat. Mix in Frangelico mixture, nuts, and salt.
  4. Divide crepes among 6 plates. Spoon sauce over and around crepes.

1/3/10

Chiacchiere – Traditional Italian New Year’s Cookies (makes 2 dozen)

Chiacchiere are the traditional Italian New Year’s cookie eaten throughout Italy, were each region has their own unique version. Although a simple pasta dough, Chiacchiere has the added flavor brought by dry white wine, rather than water, in the recipe. When fried, the sugars in the wine bring a beautiful hue to the cookie.

Here Chez provides you a simple and authentic Chiacchiere recipe from the Apulian region of Italy (the heel and back of the ankle of ‘the boot’).

The level of light flakiness in this treat has to be tried to be appreciated and the honey & rose water dipping sauce completes this dessert.

This recipe was good enough to earn it a second star for January 3rd. Enjoy!

- Chez

Ingredients

  • 8 ounces all-purpose flour
  • 8 ounces cake flour
  • 2 ounces sugar
  • 3 ounces (3/4 stick) butter
  • 1 cup of extra virgin olive oil
  • 2 eggs
  • ½ - ¾ cup dry white wine
  • granulated sugar for garnish
  • 2-3 cups vegetable oil for frying
  • Cookie cutters
  • ½ orange blossom honey
  • 1 tbs rose water

Preparation

  1. Mix together the flour, sugar, eggs, butter and olive oil.
  2. Knead well for a while until it gets soft.
  3. To help you get it smoother, add some white wine. Roll out the dough and make a thin sheet (not higher that a couple millimeters) and cut punch out cookie cutter shapes of different silhouettes (squares, strips, fan shapes).
  4. Refrigerate for a minimum of 3 hours to re-harden dough.
  5. Warm honey in microwave, on high, for 15 seconds.
  6. Stir in rose water until well blended.
  7. Cover and set aside. NOTE: Do not refrigerate.
  8. After 3 hours, fry the dough figures in oil until golden.
  9. Remove from pan and place on inverted cooling rack over paper towels to absorb excessive oil.
  10. Dust with granulated sugar while still hot.
  11. Serve with dipping sauce on the side,

Brown Butter Pound Cake

Chez rarely includes a dessert with his brunch but for his New Year’s Themed Day, he decided to take a walk on the wild side and include this lovely.

The cake was considerably less dense than the traditional version and the brown butter added a nice depth of nutty goodness.

- Chez

Ingredients

  • 2 1/4 sticks unsalted butter
  • 2 cups sifted cake flour (not self-rising; sift before measuring)
  • 1 teaspoon baking powder
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 1/2 cup packed light brown sugar
  • 1/2 cup granulated sugar
  • 4 large eggs
  • 1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Preparation

  1. Preheat oven to 325°F with rack in middle.
  2. Butter and lightly flour an 8 1/2-by 4 1/2-inch loaf pan.
  3. Heat butter in a 10-inch heavy skillet over medium heat until milk solids on bottom are a dark chocolate brown.
  4. Transfer to a shallow bowl and chill in freezer until just congealed, about 15 minutes.
  5. Whisk together flour, baking powder, and salt.
  6. Beat together brown butter and sugars with an electric mixer until fluffy, about 2 minutes.
  7. Add eggs 1 at a time, beating well after each addition.
  8. Beat in vanilla.
  9. At low speed, mix in flour mixture until just incorporated.
  10. Transfer batter to pan, smoothing top, then rap pan on counter to settle batter.
  11. Bake until golden-brown and a wooden pick inserted into center comes out clean, 1 to 1 1/4 hours.
  12. Cool in pan 30 minutes, then remove from pan and cool completely, 1 hour.